“Well I'm not dumb but I can't understand
Why she walked like a woman and talked like a man
Oh my Lola la-la-la-la Lola la-la-la-la Lola…”
Woops. My bad, food lovers. I guess I was thinking of another Lola just now. But I can assure you of something...on Holy Saturday the only Lola on my mind was the quaint, little Spanish cuisine-serving establishment found along Esplanade in Bayou St. John
Just a short walk from the south end of City Park as well as the Fair Grounds Race Course, which serves as the location for the reputable New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, Lola’s is located in a narrow, green-clad building camouflaged as a yet another shotgun-style residence. However, the bright neon sign bearing the restaurant’s name, as well as the large, inviting window on the sidewalk façade, manage to spoil the well-kept secret. Lola’s sits next door to the Terranova Brothers Superette and is across the street from a restaurant known as Santa Fe. A short distance away is the Ponce De Leon and Esplanade intersection which is home to a number of additional eateries and the Canseco Esplanade Market. This small cluster of business clearly forms a much-needed culinary oasis in a dessert of neighboring domiciles.
Like most small New Orleans restaurants, Lola’s makes good use of every inch of real estate at its disposal. The lot it sits on is considerably cramped, but there are still a few tables available for patrons desiring to dine outside, in addition to the number of seating options indoors. My party and I learned firsthand how quickly the restaurant reaches maximum capacity. Lola's only serves dinner, opening 5:30 sharp each day, and only for a few hours. If you don’t time things just right, obtaining a table is presumably quite difficult.
Fortunately, we arrived around 5:05, well before any additional diners, and merely lounged at two of the outside tables while waiting for the door to open like Dorothy and company at the gates of the Emerald City. Prior to officially opening, the host explained the reservation procedure and passed around a clipboard with a sheet of paper for those looking to secure a table. I felt privileged to have grabbed the top spot on the list. This isn't the sort of place that you grab a table at whenever you feel like it.
Once we made our way inside, we sat at a table to the right of the entrance. The restaurant is as small as you would imagine given the size and shape of the building housing it. However, the restaurant was well-designed, with a décor clearly a step above casual dining. The kitchen is in plain sight of each table and therefore results in an entertaining spectacle if tableside conversation begins to fade. The cooks busily assemble each dish with a remarkable fervor and energy and the rest of the staff is constantly attending to the diners.
We were informed by our server that if we chose to order a paella, it would take approximately 20-30 minutes to prepare the dish. Therefore, we made sure to place our order as quickly as possible so as to help expedite the process. The majority of the cooking staff’s aforementioned labors were undoubtedly dedicated to the construction of this labor intensive dish.
I ordered an individual seafood paella, while the rest of the table chose to share a large meat paella. The paellas are cooked with arborio rice rather than an angel hair pasta, as is the case with the fideaus. We also ordered the garlic mushrooms as an appetizer, which came highly recommended. And of course, my date and I each had a glass of Lola’s famous sangria.
The sangria arrived with a number of fruits bobbing in the wine glass, primarily pieces of apple, and was filled quite high when juxtaposed with most restaurant servings of wine. The beverage was delightfully nectarous but not too overwhelming. Anyone who desires an alcoholic beverage or specifically a sweet wine that does not possess an excessively inebriating taste would love a glass of this sangria. Each sip is nothing but pure satisfaction. The alcohol-soaked fruit also provides an enjoyable conclusion to the drink. I believe I guzzled my drink in less than ten minutes. It goes down exceptionally easy.
At $3 a glass, the sangria is a bargain. And at $13 a bottle, it’s a damn steal. Be sure to order a bottle, or two, for the table when you visit.
The garlic mushrooms, like most of the dishes, arrived in a sizzling cast iron skillet. I will concede that I have never thought highly of mushrooms. I regard them as nothing more than a filler for most entrees and I never found them to serve much of a purpose when attempting to enhance or accentuate a flavor. But, these mushrooms were fantastic. In my opinion, Lola’s managed to do about as much with a mushroom as is possible.
When our paellas arrived we were quite famished. The food was still cooking when the cast iron skillets of various sizes were placed on our table. If I were to offer any sort of advice when attempting to consume this dish, it would be to remove the food from the skillet as quickly as possible so as to mitigate the amount of rice sticking to the piping hot skillet.
The only minor complaint I had about the paella was that it was so fresh, and consequently hot, that I burned my tongue several times due to my impatience. Be sure to transport your serving to a plate and patiently wait about a minute for it to cool.
The seafood paella was remarkable. The assortment of shrimp, fish, calamari, scallops, and mussels are well-suited for any seafood lover. And the trio of garlic, saffron, and herbs forged a formidable, wide-ranging sapidity.
The meat paella was also quite tasty, but I preferred my seafood option due to the wider range of meats incorporated into the dish.
We did have one critic at the table who regarded the paella as nothing more than a glorified Creole jambalaya with slightly less flavor. Considering that she ordered the meat option, I can understand her opinion. A meat paella and Creole jambalaya are, at least on paper, quite comparable in terms of primary ingredients. However, as someone who has resided in Louisiana for their entire life, I have to disagree in regards to the resemblance of flavors for the respective Spanish and Creole dishes. To the naked eye they might seem like trans-Atlantic cousins, but one bite of each will clearly reveal the differing taste. In particular, the utilization of saffron helps differentiate the two.
I do wish that we would have ordered the ceviche…as well as several other dishes. The menu can become pricey if you allow it, but, as I mentioned before, this is not the sort of place you eat at on just any old night.
Lola’s is a nice change of pace for those who are tired of standard Mexican fare or the middling variations of Southern seafood. It offers ethnic cuisine that is not too foreign to residents of a city once occupied by the Spanish, and a number of distinct dishes exclusive to its menu. Plus, it’s a perfect date night option if you are looking to impress your significant other with a borderline hole in the wall dining spot that offers some cheap, classy, and tasty booze.
Now if you will excuse me…“La-la-la-la Lola la-la-la-la Lola. Lola la-la-la-la Lola la-la-la-la Lola.”
Taste: 9/10
Cost: 7/10
Dining Area/Decor: 9/10
Customer Service: 8/10
Location: 9/10
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